Guatemala is a land of volcanoes. Well, at least the center of the country. The Peten is a different landscape all together, with lush lowland jungles. But much of the Guatemalan landscape is dominated by towering volcanoes. Antigua’s avenues sit at the base of the majestic Agua volcano, which dominates the southern horizon of the city. It is the nearby Fuego volcano, however, that captures most of the limelight. Fuego, (fire, in Spanish) spits out smoke and ash on a daily basis it seems, and I think I was told that its famous red flames and lava are seasonal. I have only seen the smoke. Sometimes we sit on the balcony overlooking the courtyard, and watch the smoke come out of the volcano. I’m spending more time on the balcony these days, since Liana has mastered the art of climbing up the stairs. She can’t get down, and thankfully does not yet even try. But she loves going up.

Now this whole walking thing is starting to feel absurd. The kid can walk. She can balance herself, without holding on to anything, if she is doing something fun, like dancing or playing with a toy or drinking her bottle while watching something interesting. And she can walk sideways around tables and benches and couches. She can walk pushing her stroller. But as soon as I try to push her to walk without holding onto anything, she is down on her hands and knees, crawling like a little crab.